Trusted HVAC Services in Richardson, TX – Airmatics at Your Service

If your AC is running but the air isn’t cold, there could be a few common issues. One likely cause is low refrigerant due to a leak – without enough refrigerant, the system can’t cool the air. It could also be a failing compressor or a dirty condenser coil limiting the cooling. In some cases, something as simple as a very dirty air filter or a blocked outdoor unit can cause weak cooling. Check that your filters are clean and the outdoor unit is free of debris. If everything looks fine but your AC still blows warm air, you’ll need a professional AC repair to check for refrigerant leaks or component failures so your home can get cool again

During extreme heat in Richardson and the DFW area, it’s often normal for an AC to run almost nonstop. AC systems are typically designed to maintain about a 20°F difference from the outdoor temperature. On 100°F+ summer days, your unit may run continuously and indoor temps might hover around 78-80°F even if you set it lower. In fact, most systems are sized for roughly a 95°F outdoor day – when it’s hotter, the AC loses some cooling capacity and will run non-stop to try to keep. So if it’s an exceptionally hot afternoon, constant running alone isn’t necessarily a problem. However, if your AC never reaches the thermostat setting even at night or milder days, or it used to cool better than it does now, that could indicate an issue (like low refrigerant or dirty coils). When in doubt, have an HVAC technician inspect the system to make sure everything is working correctly and efficiently for the Texas heat.

Uneven cooling (or heating) in different rooms is a common frustration. Often the issue comes from your home’s ductwork or layout. If ductwork is too small, very long, or uninsulated, the air can lose cooling before it reaches certain vents. Rooms furthest from the blower or in sunny upstairs areas may get less air flow or more heat gain, making them warmer. Likewise, leaks or disconnects in ducts can greatly weaken airflow to specific rooms. Other factors include the number of vents or returns in the room, as well as insulation and window exposure – for example, a room with poor insulation or west-facing windows might stay hotter. To fix this, you can have an HVAC professional balance or repair your ductwork (to ensure each room gets sufficient air). Also consider boosting insulation or using sun-blocking curtains in hot rooms. In some cases, installing a zoning system or a ductless mini-split for troublesome areas can help even out the temperatures by giving you direct control of cooling in that zone.

If you notice very weak air coming out of vents, the first thing to check is your air filter. A clogged filter is often the main reason for weak airflow, because dust and pet hair block the passage of air. Replacing a dirty filter can sometimes immediately improve flow. Another cause is leaky or poorly connected ductwork – if conditioned air is escaping through gaps in the ducts, less makes it to your vents. You might feel some rooms barely get airflow if a duct is disconnected or leaking en route. Additionally, the blower fan in your HVAC could be malfunctioning (slowing down due to wear or a bad capacitor), which means it’s not pushing air as strongly as it should. Occasionally, weak airflow is a sign of ice on the evaporator coil; a frozen coil restricts air until it thaws. In summary, start by checking the filter and make sure vents are open and unblocked. If the airflow is still weak throughout the house, it’s wise to have a technician inspect the blower and ductwork for issues like leaks or a failing fan motor.

Water pooling around your indoor AC unit or dripping from the attic or vents is usually a sign of a drainage problem. Your air conditioner not only cools the air, it also removes humidity, which collects as condensation in the drip pan and drains out via a line. If that drain line gets clogged with algae or debris, water backs up and can overflow inside. A clogged condensate drain line is the most common cause of AC water leaks, followed by a dirty air filter or a broken condensate pumptemperatureprodallas.com. A dirty filter can make the evaporator coil freeze up; when it melts, extra water may overwhelm the drain pantemperatureprodallas.com. In units that use a pump to lift water out (common when the air handler is in a basement or lower level), a pump failure will also cause leakage. The first step is to turn off your AC to stop adding more water. You can try to unclog the drain line (for example, using a safe pipe cleaner or vacuum on the line outlet) if you’re comfortable, and replace a very dirty filter. However, it’s usually best to have an HVAC professional clear the blockage or repair the pump properly so you don’t risk water damage or mold. They’ll flush the condensate line, fix any problems, and get your AC draining correctly again.

A frozen AC is a sure sign something’s wrong – you might notice the indoor evaporator coil or the refrigerant lines coated in ice. Don’t run the AC when it’s frozen; first, turn the system off and let it thaw completely. Running it frozen can strain the compressor. There are two primary causes of freeze-ups: airflow problems or refrigerant issues. Poor airflow (often from a clogged filter, closed/blocked vents, or a malfunctioning blower) can cause the coil temperature to drop too much and ice over. Low refrigerant level (due to a leak) will also make the coil freeze because of lower pressure in the system. Once the ice has melted, check your air filter and replace it if it’s dirty, and make sure no vents are blocked by furniture. This may resolve minor airflow-induced icing. If the AC freezes up again, you likely have a refrigerant leak or a mechanical issue that needs professional attention. An HVAC technician will test the refrigerant levels, find any leak, and check the blower and coils. In the meantime, keep the system off – or run just the fan mode – to avoid refreezing. Regular maintenance (clean filters, annual tune-ups) can help prevent freeze-ups in the future by catching the common culprits early.

Unusual noises from your air conditioning or heating system are like a cry for help – you should not ignore them. Different sounds can point to specific issues. For example, rattling or banging often means a part is loose or broken and is clanging around inside the unit. This could be a panel, a fan blade, or even something like a blower wheel off balance. Screeching or squealing usually indicates a blower motor bearing that’s worn out or a slipping fan belt that’s nearing the end of its life. A hissing or high-pitched whistling sound can be more serious – it may be a refrigerant leak or high pressure in the compressor, or simply air escaping from a leaky duct. In any case, if your HVAC starts making loud sounds (banging, grinding, screeching, etc.), you should shut it off and have it inspected. Running it while something is wrong can lead to bigger, more expensive damage. Once a professional checks it out, they’ll tighten any loose components, replace worn belts or motors, and recharge refrigerant or fix leaks if needed. It’s best to address strange noises early – a quick fix now can save your system from a major breakdown later.

If your electric bills are noticeably higher than usual in the summer (and you haven’t dramatically changed your usage), your cooling system might be the culprit. An inefficient HVAC system will run longer and use more electricity to keep you comfortable. One common cause is simply a dirty air filter or coil, which makes the AC work harder to push air through. Another major factor can be leaky ducts – if cool air is escaping through gaps in the ductwork, the AC has to run extra to compensate, wasting energy (in fact, up to ~30% of cooled air can leak out in some homes). Also consider the age of your system: as AC units get past 10-15 years old, they lose efficiency and newer models are much more energy-efficient. To tackle high bills, start with maintenance: put in a clean filter, and have a technician tune up the system to ensure the coils are clean and the refrigerant charge is correct. Sealing any duct leaks can also drastically cut energy waste. If your unit is very old or has needed a lot of repairs, it might be time to invest in a new high-efficiency AC – while there’s an upfront cost, the reduction in energy bills can be significant. In short, high bills are usually a sign to improve efficiency either by maintenance or upgrades so your AC isn’t working overtime for the same result.

Regular HVAC maintenance is extremely important in a climate like North Texas. Both your cooling and heating systems should be serviced annually – ideally, schedule a tune-up for the air conditioner in the spring and the furnace in the fall before each high-use season. That means two check-ups a year for a typical central HVAC system (one for AC and one for heat). During a maintenance visit, the technician will clean critical components, replace filters, check refrigerant levels, oil motors, and ensure everything is running safely and efficiently. Skipping maintenance can lead to unexpected breakdowns or reduced efficiency because small issues go unnoticed. In fact, lack of regular maintenance is a top cause of HVAC problems and reduced lifespan. By staying on a twice-a-year schedule, you not only keep your manufacturer warranties valid in many cases, but also catch issues early and ensure your system can handle the summer heat or winter chill without surprise failures. If you can’t do twice a year, at minimum do a yearly check-up on your most used system (for example, the AC) – but in Richardson’s hot climate, a biannual schedule is recommended to keep your home comfortable year-round.

When you turn on the heat during a chilly spell and get cold air, it’s definitely a problem. A very common (and easily fixed) cause is thermostat settings: check that your thermostat’s fan is set to “Auto” and not “On.” If it’s set to On, the fan will blow constantly even when the furnace burners cycle off, which can send unheated air through the vents between heating cycles. If the fan setting isn’t the issue, the furnace itself may have one of several problems. For gas furnaces, pilot light or ignition troubles are a top culprit – a gas furnace can’t heat if the pilot is out or the electronic igniter isn’t working, and this will result in cold air blowing. Similarly, a dirty flame sensor can cause the burner to ignite for a few seconds then shut off, so the air never really warms. Another possibility is the furnace is overheating and tripping the high-limit switch – this often happens from restricted airflow (like a dirty filter) causing the furnace to get too hot, and for safety it shuts the burners off, then only cold air blows until it cools down. Lastly, on heat pump systems, if it’s very cold outside, the unit might go into a defrost mode that could blow cool air briefly, or the auxiliary heat might have an issue.
What to do? First, try a simple reset: turn off the system, wait a few minutes, and turn it back on. Confirm the thermostat settings are correct. If the furnace still blows cold, it’s time to call for service. The HVAC technician will examine whether it’s a pilot/ignition failure, a sensor issue, or something like a blower problem, and get your heat back up and running safely.

Improving indoor air quality (IAQ) is a combination of keeping the air clean, fresh, and at the right humidity. Start with your HVAC system’s air filter: use a good quality pleated filter and change it regularly, about every 1 to 3 month. This helps trap dust, pollen, and other allergens so they don’t recirculate into your rooms. You’d be surprised how much a clean filter can do to reduce allergy symptoms and dust buildup. Next, consider other sources of pollutants – for instance, have your ductwork inspected. Over the years, dust and even mold can accumulate in ducts, then get blown into your living space. If you notice a musty smell or excessive dust, a professional duct cleaning might be worthwhile to remove those allergens. Managing humidity is also key to IAQ: high humidity (above ~60%) can promote mold and dust mites, while air that’s too dry (under ~30%) can irritate your sinuses. Aim for a healthy middle ground, roughly 30-50% relative humidity indoors. In our North Texas climate, we often have high humidity in summer, so ensure your AC and any dehumidifiers are working properly to keep moisture in check (and in winter, a humidifier can help if the air gets very dry). You might also explore adding an indoor air quality upgrade to your HVAC system, such as UV-C light purifiers that kill bacteria and mold in the air handler, or advanced filtration systems. Overall, regular maintenance of your HVAC system – cleaning coils, changing filters, and checking ventilation – will ensure it’s effectively helping clean your air. By taking these steps, you can greatly reduce allergens and enjoy healthier indoor air at home or at your business.

The lifespan of an HVAC system can vary, but generally air conditioners last around 12 to 15 years in our area. In many cases, with excellent maintenance some might push up to around 20 years, but by the 15-year mark most AC units are starting to lose efficiency or face reliability issues. Our long, hot summers mean AC units get a lot of wear, so their upper lifespan might be a bit on the lower end of that range if maintenance has been neglected. For heating systems, like gas furnaces, the lifespan is often somewhat longer – typically about 15 to 20 years is expected from a furnace (especially since North Texas winters are milder and your furnace doesn’t work as hard as an AC). Heat pumps, which provide both cooling and heating, might last around 10-15 years due to year-round use. Of course, these numbers assume proper upkeep. Units that have had regular maintenance and prompt repairs when needed will last closer to the high end of the range, whereas poorly maintained systems may fail earlier. If your AC is over a decade old, it’s wise to start budgeting and planning for a replacement around the 15-year point. You’ll also want to consider replacement if you notice your older unit struggling, needing frequent repairs, or causing energy bills to spike – newer HVAC models not only avoid breakdowns but are also much more efficient. Every situation is a bit different, but in summary: expect roughly 12-15 good years from your AC, and about 15-20 years from your furnace, and make sure to maintain them to maximize their life.

Commercial heating and cooling systems should be serviced regularly to keep your business comfortable and avoid downtime. In fact, a commercial HVAC system needs maintenance just as often as a residential system – generally twice per year is recommended. Typically this means scheduling professional maintenance once a year for the cooling side (AC) and once a year for the heating side, usually in spring and fall. (If your commercial HVAC is a heat pump that both cools and heats, industry guidelines still suggest two tune-ups a year since it’s doing double duty.) Regular maintenance for commercial systems will include many of the same tasks as home HVAC maintenance (cleaning coils, changing filters, checking belts and electrical connections, verifying refrigerant levels, etc.), but it’s even more critical because commercial units often run longer hours and serve larger spaces. With lots of people relying on the building’s comfort, you don’t want a surprise breakdown in the middle of a Texas summer. By keeping on a spring/fall maintenance schedule, you’ll help the system run efficiently, catch any wear-and-tear issues early, and extend the life of that big investment. Also, be sure to hire qualified HVAC professionals familiar with commercial equipment. They will understand rooftop units, large-scale duct systems, and zone controls that businesses often use, ensuring your maintenance is done right. In short, at least biannual check-ups are the norm for commercial HVAC, and some high-usage environments might even benefit from quarterly filter changes or inspections to keep everything running smoothly.